Curso de posgrado “Conceptos y Modelos de Calidad de Software” - San Antonio de Areco

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PERGAMINO, Septiembre 19 (www.ArecoCiudad.com.ar) A trav?s del Instituto de Posgrado de la UNNOBA, la Escuela de Tecnolog?a dictar? el Curso de Posgrado "Conceptos y Modelos de Calidadde Software". Comienza el 19 de octubre.

El curso introduce en los diferentes conceptos de calidad de software y las normas regionales, internacionales que m?s se utilizan como gu?a para el desarrollo del proceso de software basado en las buenas pr?cticas.

Los docentes responsables del mismo son Silvia Esponda, calculista cient?fico, docente de la Universidad Nacional de La Plata y autora de publicaciones cient?ficas, y por el Mg. en Sistemas Inform?ticos Avanzados Ariel Pasini, docente e investigador de la Universidad Nacional de La Plata y autor de publicaciones cient?ficas.

Est? destinado a profesionales de software que est?n interesados en introducir sus organizaciones a las buenas pr?cticas.

Tiene una carga horaria de 24 horas reloj. Dar? comienzo el viernes 19 de octubre y se dictar?n nueve clases presenciales en dos encuentros semanales: los viernes de 18 a 21 horas y s?bados de 9 a 12 horas.

Informes e inscripci?n, en el Instituto de Posgrado: telef?nicamente al: 0236-4636950 (interno 12500) -- Jun?n o al 02477-444302 (interno 21201) -- Pergamino. Tambi?n a los mails posgrado@unnoba.edu.ar o calidadsoftware@unnoba.edu.ar. (www.ArecoCiudad.com.ar)

Cezanne Software Ibérica cierra el primer semestre del año con un ... - ABC.es

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(Informaci?n remitida: EFE no se hace responsable de este contenido)

"Los ingresos incrementaron un 20%, con respecto al mismo per?odo del ejercicio anterior impulsados principalmente por las ventas de SaaS.

En Latinoam?rica el crecimiento ha sido superior, situ?ndose ?ste en un 30%, debido a las numerosas oportunidades de negocio que presenta el mercado latinoamericano as? como, a la r?plica del modelo espa?ol en el que despunta la comercializaci?n de soluciones en la Nube.

Cezanne Software, especialista en el desarrollo y comercializaci?n de software de gesti?n de recursos humanos (RRHH), presenta su balance del primer semestre del a?o. La compa??a vuelve a cerrar con beneficios tras el lanzamiento de su estrategia SaaS que le permite abordar un mercado m?s amplio en el que se incluye a las peque?as y medianas empresas, adem?s de consolidar el entorno de la gran cuenta, en el que la organizaci?n dispone de una amplia cuota de mercado.

La compa??a ha decidido igualmente apostar por mercados emergentes como el latinoamericano. En este sentido, Cezanne Software Ib?rica traslada su visi?n de fabricante global con presencia local para aprovechar, por un lado, las sinergias de otros entornos y, por otro, garantizar la cercan?a con el cliente, generando confianza y ofreciendo un servicio de calidad como valor a?adido.

Los resultados obtenidos tras el lanzamiento de Cezanne OnDemand, la primera soluci?n de software de recursos humanos de pago por uso, con cuotas mensuales que se ajustan por arriba - y por abajo- para reflejar el n?mero de empleados en activo que administra, reflejan la tendencia del mercado, que opta cada vez con m?s frecuencia por soluciones de gesti?n en la Nube.

Como explica Jos? Manuel Villase?or, director general de Cezanne Software Ib?rica "la gesti?n de recursos humanos es un servicio apto para subirse a la Nube. El abaratamiento de costes que ofrece, la flexibilidad que permite y la comodidad que supone, han hecho que nuestro servicio de pago por uso, Cezanne OnDemand, sea uno de los m?s demandados en este momento".

Los ingresos obtenidos de la comercializaci?n de las soluciones SaaS as? como de los servicios que se derivan de las mismas, han situado el crecimiento de Cezanne Software Ib?rica en un 20% por encima de la cifra de negocio obtenida en el mismo per?odo del pasado ejercicio. La compa??a ha conseguido aumentar sus ventas de SaaS en Espa?a un 42% con respecto al mismo per?odo de 2011, siendo sus ingresos por servicios, un 33% m?s elevados.

La radiograf?a de los resultados obtenidos en el mercado latinoamericano refleja una situaci?n muy similar a la que presenta el mercado espa?ol. Las cifras a tener en cuenta, son las siguientes: incremento del 30% de los ingresos totales; aumento del 11% de las ventas de soluciones SaaS e incremento de los ingresos por mantenimiento del 60%.

El director de Cezanne Software Ib?rica, responsable igualmente, de la compa??a en Latinoam?rica explica que "en este entorno, aunque han aumentado las ventas de SaaS, la subida no es tan notable como la que se ha experimentado en el mercado espa?ol, m?s maduro en este sentido. Por el contrario, los mercados latinoamericanos siguen apostando por la implantaci?n de soluciones in house y la adquisici?n de licencias. Aunque creemos que esta tendencia est? en remisi?n, algo que podremos confirmar seguramente, en la presentaci?n de las ventas del segundo semestre".

Acerca de Cezanne Software

Cezanne Software proporciona soluciones punteras en la gesti?n del Capital Humano que ayudan a las organizaciones a gestionar el desarrollo de sus empleados y a recompensar y retener a los mejores.

Con m?s de 10 a?os de experiencia en el desarrollo de soluciones para la gesti?n del Talento, y m?s de 700 clientes en 21 pa?ses, Cezanne Software tiene como compromiso la calidad del servicio a sus clientes. www.cezannesw.com/es

Para m?s informaci?n puedes contactar con:

Cezanne Software Ib?rica

MS Comunicaci?n

Laura Useros

Cristina del Amo

luseros@cezannesw.com

cdelamo@mscomunicacion.es

Tel: 91 768 40 80

Tel: 91 626 62 47"

AGENCIA

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Google compra Nik Software, rival de Instagram - Terra Argentina

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Google Inc dijo el lunes que compró Nik Software, rival de Instagram y desarrollador de la galardonada aplicación Snapseed para edita imágenes, por una suma no revelada.

Google y Facebook Inc están inmersos en una batalla por atraer a los fanáticos de las redes sociales que cada vez más se pasan a las aplicaciones móviles, como la edición de fotografías.

Si bien no es tan famosa como Instagram, disponible en forma gratuita en los dispositivos móviles de Apple, Snapseed ha ganado muchos seguidores entre los fotógrafos por su capacidad de edición de imágenes a pesar de un precio de 4,99 dólares.

Nik Software dice que Snapseed tiene más de 9 millones de usuarios, en tanto Instagram dice tener más de 100 millones.

"Queremos ayudar a nuestros usuarios a crear fotos que les encanten, y según nuestra experiencia Nik lo hace mejor que nadie", posteó en Google+ Vic Gundotra, vicepresidente senior de ingeniería.

Facebook compró este año Instagram, que desarrolló una aplicación para que los usuarios agreguen filtros y efectos a las fotos que sacan con sus teléfonos inteligentes, por la friolera de 1.000 millones de dólares.

Snapseed obtuvo en el 2011 el premio de Apple Inc "Aplicación del año para iPad" por su interfaz multitáctil de edición de fotos.

"Siempre aspiramos a compartir nuestra pasión por la fotografía con todos, y con el respaldo de Google esperamos poder ayudar a muchos millones más de personas a crear fotografías impresionantes", señaló Nik Software en su sitio en internet.

Gundotra dijo que Google+ había alcanzado más de 400 millones de usuarios esta semana y había traspasado los 100 millones de usuarios activos mensuales.

(Reporte de Sayantani Ghosh y Sruthi Ramakrishnan en Bangalore; editado por Hernán García)

18 de septiembre: Día del Software Libre - Rafaela.com

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18 de septiembre: D?a del Software Libre En Argentina, hasta ahora, hay 14 ciudades confirmadas de festejarlo - Efemerides

, calendario internacional, calendario, calendario anual, efem?rides, efem?rides de hoy, efem?rides argentinas, calendario, celebraciones, conmemoraciones, agenda, santos del d?a, santos, agenda online, calendario gratis, agenda gratis, feriados, efemerides internacionales, efemerides argentinas, calendario para imprimir, calendario comercial, calendario imprimible, rafaela, portal rafaela, rafaelinos, rafaela, news, facebook, youtube, google, tuenti, nexus one, iphone, yahoo, windows 7, windows, win 7, nokia, google maps, juegos online, apple, embarazo, gmail , noticias, internet, internacionales, agro, deportes, humor, empresariales, cultura, espect?culos, you tube, clima, pronostico, mapa satelital, internacional, exterior, ciencia, ultimas noticias, clasificados, humor, newspaper, argentina, espa?a, mexico, diario hispano, latino, noticias de hoy, diario digital"> En Argentina, hasta ahora, hay 14 ciudades confirmadas de festejarlo - Efemerides

En Argentina, hasta ahora, hay 14 ciudades confirmadas de festejarlo - Efemerides

, Calendario gratis con efem?rides de hoy, feriados de Argentina y Santos del mes. Agenda y Calendario con fechas especiales." /> function googleTranslateElementInit() { new google.translate.TranslateElement({ pageLanguage: 'es', gaTrack: true, gaId: 'UA-85029-1' });} Inicio Argentina Deportes General Gu?a var html = ''; html += 'Voley'; html += ' '; html += ''; document.getElementById('1').innerHTML += html; var html = ''; html += 'Hockey'; html += ' '; html += ''; document.getElementById('1').innerHTML += html; var html = ''; html += 'Tenis'; html += ' '; html += ''; document.getElementById('1').innerHTML += html; var html = ''; html += 'Automovilismo'; html += ' '; html += ''; document.getElementById('1').innerHTML += html; var html = ''; html += 'Rugby'; html += ' '; html += ''; document.getElementById('1').innerHTML += html; var html = ''; html += 'B?squet'; html += ' '; html += ''; document.getElementById('1').innerHTML += html; var html = ''; html += 'F?tbol'; html += ' '; html += ''; document.getElementById('1').innerHTML += html; var html = ''; html += 'Hockey'; 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html += ' '; html += ''; document.getElementById('5').innerHTML += html; var html = ''; html += 'Argentino B'; html += ' '; html += ''; document.getElementById('5').innerHTML += html; var html = ''; html += 'Ascenso Nacional B'; html += ' '; html += ''; document.getElementById('5').innerHTML += html; var html = ''; html += 'Karting'; html += ' '; html += ''; document.getElementById('10').innerHTML += html; var html = ''; html += 'Cartelera de Cine'; html += ' '; html += ''; document.getElementById('11').innerHTML += html; var html = ''; html += 'Famosos - Far?ndula'; html += ' '; html += ''; document.getElementById('11').innerHTML += html; var html = ''; html += 'Cultura'; html += ' '; html += ''; document.getElementById('11').innerHTML += html; var html = ''; html += 'M?sica'; html += ' '; html += ''; document.getElementById('11').innerHTML += html; var html = ''; html += 'Pel?culas'; html += ' '; html += ''; document.getElementById('11').innerHTML += html; var html = ''; html += 'M?sica'; html += ' '; html += ''; document.getElementById('11').innerHTML += html; var html = ''; html += 'Hardware - Software'; html += ' '; html += ''; document.getElementById('14').innerHTML += html; var html = ''; html += 'M?viles - Celulares'; html += ' '; html += ''; document.getElementById('14').innerHTML += html; var html = ''; html += 'Internet'; html += ' '; html += ''; document.getElementById('14').innerHTML += html; var html = ''; html += 'Consultora y Servicios'; html += ' '; html += ''; document.getElementById('14').innerHTML += html; var html = ''; html += 'Pol?tica'; html += ' '; html += ''; document.getElementById('19').innerHTML += html; Santa Fe var html = ''; html += 'Campo'; html += ' '; html += ''; document.getElementById('19').innerHTML += html; var html = ''; html += 'Econom?a'; html += ' '; html += ''; document.getElementById('19').innerHTML += html; var html = ''; html += 'Literatura'; html += ' '; html += ''; document.getElementById('23').innerHTML += html; var html = ''; 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var html = ''; html += 'Drama'; html += ' '; html += ''; document.getElementById('44').innerHTML += html; var html = ''; html += 'Infantiles'; html += ' '; html += ''; document.getElementById('44').innerHTML += html; var html = ''; html += 'Terror'; html += ' '; html += ''; document.getElementById('44').innerHTML += html; var html = ''; html += 'Acci?n'; html += ' '; html += ''; document.getElementById('44').innerHTML += html; var html = ''; html += 'Comedia'; html += ' '; html += ''; document.getElementById('44').innerHTML += html; var html = ''; html += 'Atl?tico Rafaela'; html += ' '; html += ''; document.getElementById('62').innerHTML += html; var html = ''; html += 'Deportes'; html += ' '; html += ''; document.getElementById('66').innerHTML += html; var html = ''; html += 'Cultura, Educaci?n y Salud'; html += ' '; html += ''; document.getElementById('66').innerHTML += html; var html = ''; html += 'Pol?tica'; html += ' '; html += ''; document.getElementById('66').innerHTML += html; 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var html = ''; html += 'F?bricas en general'; html += ' '; html += ''; document.getElementById('122').innerHTML += html; mbSet('mb1', 'mbh');document.getElementById('divMenuSuperior').style.display = 'block'; Buscar    buscar    | Efem?rides
18 de septiembre: D?a del Software Libre

En Argentina, hasta ahora, hay 14 ciudades confirmadas de festejarlo - Efemerides

Compartir|| Martes, 18 de Septiembre de 2012 | 10:22 (actualizado a las 10:26) imprimir | A+ A- | 18 de septiembre: Dia del Software Libre - Fuente de la imagen: taringa.net

18 de setiembre se esta realizando los festejos mundiales del Día del Software Libre.

En dicho evento se busca difundir el software libre, abordándolo desde charlas de expertos hasta experiencias reales de usuarios comunes. También se intenta “evangelizar” a autoridades gubernamentales, instituciones educativas y empresas para que se animen a dar el salto hacia tecnologías libres.

El evento se desarrollará el mismo día en todo el mundo y en muchas ciudades; en Argentina, hasta ahora, hay 14 ciudades confirmadas, entre las cuales podemos encontrar a Rosario, la Ciudad Autónoma de Buenos Aires, Neuquén, Córdoba, San Miguel de Tucumán, entre otras. Si se animan a ir , encontraran muchas charlas informativas y participativas donde podrán interiorizarse más en la temática del software libre.

Si no les basta con los cientos de blogs que hay hoy en día y necesitan un poco de comprobación empírica, está es su oportunidad para acercarse al software libre.

Fuente: puntogeek.com

-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-

Un día como hoy...
 
- Día de San José de Cupertino.
0053 – nace Trajano, emperador romano.
1709 – nace Samuel Johnson, escritor.
1783 – muere Leonhard Euler, matemático suizo.
1810 – se instala en Santiago de Chile una Junta de Gobierno patrio; pero los españoles retoman el poder en 1814.
1851 – aparece “The New York Times”.
1882 – el comandante Luis Jorge Fontana regresó de su viaje de exploración al entonces misterioso río Pilcomayo, que nace en Bolivia y separa las fronteras entre Paraguay y Argentina.
1887 – nace Armando Discépolo, director y autor teatral.
1891 – muere José Manuel Balmaceda Fernández, político chileno.
1904 – muere el Tte.Gral. Juan Andrés Gelly y Obes.
1904 – se funda el Lawn Tenis Club, de Lima, Perú.
1905 – nace Greta Garbo, actriz.
1927 – sale al aire la Columbia Broadcasting System (CBS).
1928 – el Graff Zeppelin vuela por primera vez.
1931 – nace Julio Grondona, presidente de la AFA.
1949 – nace Peter Shilton, arquero del fútbol inglés.
1952 – nace Dee Dee Ramone (Douglas Colvin), de Ramones.
1961 – muere Dag Hjalmar Agne Carl Hammarskjold.
1970 – muere Jimi Hendrix, músico de rock.
1980 – muere Katherine Anne Porter, escritora estadounidense.
1983 – Kiss aparece en MTV sin sus máscaras características.
1989 – el huracán Hugo causa graves daños en Puerto Rico.
1990 – Atlanta (en EE.UU.) es elegida para ser la sede de los Juegos Olímpicos de 1996.
2003 – El Huracán Isabel llega a la costa de Estados Unidos, dejando un saldo de 17 muertos.

Fuente:periodismo.com

Post: Chava- Fuente: El Galvense - Link origen Compartir|||

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Two men commit a robbery at a store in Fontana - Fontana Herald-News

AppId is over the quota
Two men committed a robbery at a store in Fontana on Sept. 13, according to the Fontana Police Department.

At about 2:15 p.m., two men entered the Fashion New Age store located at 17030 Slover Avenue. After picking up several items of clothing from the display racks, the men ran out of the store.

A store employee chased after the suspects. While chasing them through the parking lot, one of the robbers turned around to confront the store employee. The robber lifted up his shirt and displayed a silver handgun that was in his waistband, telling the employee to get away.

Both robbers then got into an older model blue mini-van that was being driven by another man. The vehicle then drove away through the parking lot.

Both suspects were described as being between 26 and 30 years old.

Anyone with information about this crime is encouraged to contact the Fontana Police Department at (909) 350-7740 or anonymously at (909) 356-TIPS (in reference to case No. 12-15103).

The following are comments from the readers. In no way do they represent the view of fontanaheraldnews.com.

La Cámara de A Coruña lanza software para gestión de pymes ... - Finanzas.com

AppId is over the quota

La C?mara de Comercio de A Coru?a ha puesto en marcha una plataforma pionera en Espa?a de software de gesti?n para pymes, CamerappsCoruna, una iniciativa desarrollada con la colaboraci?n del Grupo Everis.

A trav?s de esta plataforma las pymes pueden disponer de una soluci?n personalizada en funci?n de sus necesidades que les permita gestionar todo su negocio con todas las aplicaciones integradas ejecut?ndolas desde un navegador de Internet o un dispositivo m?vil.

El presidente de la C?mara de A Coru?a, Marcelo Castro-Rial, ha destacado durante la presentaci?n de la plataforma que la instituci?n ha querido crear una herramienta innovadora y segura que ayude a las empresas a ahorrar costes en un momento de especial dificultad.

"Estamos ante una transici?n a una nueva etapa de la innovaci?n empresarial impulsada, entre otras cosas, por el avance del Cloud Computing y la movilidad, que ayudar?n a sentar las bases de lo que ya se denomina Econom?a Inteligente", ha destacado Castro-Rial.

Por su parte, el gerente de Everis, Francisco Egea, ha se?alado que CamerappsCoruna "ofrece a las pymes una plataforma desde la que puedan gestionar todo su negocio, con todas las aplicaciones integradas".

Suena l?gico y simple pero no hemos encontrado en Espa?a algo similar", ha destacado.

Egea ha explicado que CamerappsCoruna cuenta con el cat?logo m?s completo de aplicaciones de gesti?n, m?s de 30 integradas entre s?, para que cada empresario pueda elegir exclusivamente las funcionalidades que le resulten m?s ?tiles.

De esta manera, puede configura su propia "suite", juntando las piezas que necesita.

Actualmente la plataforma cuenta con cuatro paquetes de aplicaciones: Premium, Pymes, Comercio y Profesionales, pensados para distintos perfiles de compa??as, a los que se sumar?n otros que se est?n desarrollando.

Adem?s, Egea ha avanzado que se contempla tambi?n la entrada de productos de empresas desarrolladoras locales que tengan una buena idea y pueda ser encajada en esta plataforma.

Entre las soluciones de software que se pueden encontrar en Camerappscoruna, est?n aplicaciones para gesti?n y administraci?n (ERP), pasando por comercializaci?n y marketing (CRM), dise?o de p?ginas web y portales (CMS), gesti?n de recursos humanos y herramientas de colaboraci?n, hasta la gesti?n de comercios con TPV.

Egea ha subrayado que con s?lo una conexi?n a Internet cualquier empresa tendr? a su alcance la gesti?n integral de todo su negocio, ya que las soluciones de Camerappscoruna se ejecutan en el propio navegador de Internet.

El gerente de Everis ha recalcado que no hace falta descargar ning?n programa y cada empresario puede elegir las herramientas de gesti?n que desee.

"Esta soluci?n flexibiliza los costes inform?ticos, ya que permite pagar mes a mes s?lo por los usuarios activos en cada una de las aplicaciones y que el empresario controle su negocio en cualquier momento independientemente de d?nde est? las 24 horas del d?a, los 7 d?as de la semana desde cualquier dispositivo con acceso a Internet", ha concluido.

Drink up, it's #LochteNation - The Independent Florida Alligator

AppId is over the quota

The pre-, mid- and post-Olympics news coverage may have subsided, but lucky for Gainesville residents, Ryan Lochte can still be a part of our daily lives. Here’s a drinking game to celebrate.

#LochteNation

If you’re pregaming on a time crunch, you should probably go straight to his Twitter feed and drink every time you see: #jeah and you’d rather see #yolo, a desperate plea for a retweet from a 20-something female, any instance of shameless promotion for a product he might have gotten for free and any instance of shameless promotion for a Ryan Lochte signature product (for example: the highly anticipated “Lochte Hardcore” workout video — now available for pre-order). Enjoy your night out, and I’m sorry in advance if you roll over the next morning and see three Doritos Locos Tacos wrappers on your bedroom floor — remember your “real self” wouldn’t make that decision, so it doesn’t count.

The Grill

It’s platinum, bears a slight resemblance to our flag and can often be found in Ryan Lochte’s mouth. If you see something gleaming near his head and it’s not a medal, it’s probably his grill, and you need to drink. Whether you see it in a picture, in real life or in your mind’s eye, grab a drink and grin while you chug. You have to keep grinning as you’re chugging.

SPOTTED

Our boy likes to party, and UF students love to document it with their smartphones. Your Facebook news feed is probably more than familiar with blurry mobile uploads of your friend sweating next to Ryan Lochte. Drink for however many “likes” the picture gets.

Be Your Own Olympian

Grab your pal Michael (everybody knows at least one Michael) and start drinking bottles of beer. The first person to reach 11 (Lochte’s medal count) wins, and the loser has to turn the winner’s beer bottle caps into 11 individual necklaces — now you can feel like an Olympian too.

Real-Life Encounter

If you’re lucky enough to see him in real life, you have one simple task: drink enough truth serum to walk up and confess to him — regardless if you’re a dude or a chick— that you’ve been crushing on him since Athens. It may not be your opinion, but it’s the general consensus of the world. Be a global Gator. #LochteWorld

NBA 2K13 pits Barkley against Durant with 2012 and 1992 Olympic ... - Digitaltrends.com

AppId is over the quota
   

NBA 2K13 focuses on new players rather than vintage, but that isn't stopping the 1992 Olympic Dream Team from putting in an appearance.

The London Olympics closed on Sunday, but that doesn’t mean you have to stop living the Olympic dream. Don’t stop rocking that happy hour for Olympic basketball games if you don’t want to! 2K Sports is actually going to lend you a helping hand come October when NBA 2K13 comes out, as the game will sport USA’s basketball teams both new and old.

The 2012 USA Basketball Men’s National Team—their official, unwieldy title—will be featured in the latest version of 2K’s annual NBA series. Since classic NBA players have become such an important part of the series, it’s not too surprising that the 1992 Olympic Dream Team that included Michael Jordan, Charles Barkley and other superstars of the era will also make it into the game.

Turns out 2K13’s guest producer Jay Z insisted. “As executive producer, letting fans go head to head with these legendary USA teams was extremely important to Jay Z,” reads 2K’s press release.

There you have it. Not just Olympic basketball action but vintage Olympic basketball action, so adjust your Olympics Drinking Game rules appropriately.

Cool that the ’92 Dream Team is in there but 2K Sports and Jay Z should consider a more significant basketball match up from 1992 for inclusion: Godzilla versus Barkley.

Close Suggestion The Madden Curse Strikes Again! [Updated for 2013]
View Article Copyright© 2012 Digital Trends, Inc. All rights reserved

Fashion New Age

Fashion New Age

Fashion agenda: Fashionistas head Down Under

August may traditionally be known as the calm before the storm in the fashion world but there are still some events to get excited about before September's New York Fashion Week, including the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Festival Sydney.

Enter the Era of the $10,000 Ready-to-Wear Dress

—By Nicole Phelps

Apps agenda: Darwin Festival, BBC Proms, Stockholm Fashion Week, Gamescom

A roundup of the essential apps needed for keeping up-to-date with major events in art, music and more for August 13-19.

Analyst: Ralph Lauren CFO heading to Estee Lauder

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Hugo BOSS presents BOSS Black campaign

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Designers Dolce, Gabbana face tax trial: sources

MILAN (Reuters) - Italian fashion designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, who count model Naomi Campbell and pop star Madonna among their friends, will stand trial over alleged tax evasion, according to legal sources and a court filing seen by Reuters. Milan judge Giuseppe Gennari gave the green light for prosecutors to bring the fashion duo to court over allegations of tax evasion offences totaling around 1 billion euros ($1.25 billion). ...

Coca-Cola and Will.i.am to launch eco-friendly brand

Black Eyed Peas member Will.i.am is teaming up with The Coca-Cola Company to launch a brand of eco-friendly clothing and accessories in a bid to promote recycling, reports FashionMag.com.

Elie Saab channels inner sultan at Paris fashion week

PARIS (Reuters) - Byzantine opulence and splendour worthy of a sultan's harem greeted guests at Elie Saab's fashion show on Wednesday, as the Lebanese designer beloved of the Hollywood set presented a fantasy collection spun from embroidered tulle and lace. Saab, who is known for his red carpet creations, said he was inspired by Constantinople for his autumn/winter 2012-2013 Haute Couture collection, and indeed the gold, shimmer and sparkle overflowed in the pillared Paris reception hall on the Rue Cambon. ...

Lakmé Fashion Week: Five quickfire questions for celeb makeup artist Kapil Bhalla

As fashionistas descend on Mumbai for the Winter/Festive edition of Lakmé Fashion Week, makeup artist to the stars Kapil Bhalla -- one of the event's special guests -- chats with Relaxnews and reveals the biggest beauty secret he believes his countrywomen have to share.

Christian Dior changes its face in couture day 1

The start of haute couture week in Paris is a must on any self-respecting fashionista's calendar.

A look at the Spice Girls' updated styles at the Olympics

The Olympics closing ceremony reunited famed girl group the Spice Girls, who inspired many fashion trends among teens and young women in the 90s, including towering platform shoes. MTV Style has revealed details on the band's outfit choices and provided a look at the fashion statements made at their comeback show.

Bridal gown designer Vera Wang and her husband agree to separate; couple married in 1989

NEW YORK, N.Y. - Fashion designer Vera Wang, who launched her label with wedding gowns, and her husband, Arthur Becker, are separating.

Ralph Lauren 1Q profit up 5 pct, warns on 2Q sales

Ralph Lauren Corp. said Wednesday that its fiscal first-quarter net income rose 5 percent, but the clothing and home goods maker forecast a revenue decline in the current quarter and sounded a note of caution about the weak global economy hurting consumer spending.

Czech supermodel Nemcova named envoy for Haiti

Supermodel Petra Nemcova has been named ambassador at large for Haiti because of the charity work she's done through her nonprofit group the Happy Hearts Fund.

Raf Simon's Florally Refined Christian Dior

There is nothing quite like the respect of one's peers, which is what Raf Simons got in considerable quantities at his debut runway collection for the house of Christian Dior.

News summary: Ralph Lauren 1Q net income rises

THE NEWS: Clothing and home goods maker Ralph Lauren Co. on Wednesday reported its fiscal-first quarter net income rose 5 percent on strong growth in North America and a lower tax rate.

Fashion world mourns style icon Anna Piaggi

Designer Stefano Gabbana has led a pouring out of Twitter tributes to renowned style icon Anna Piaggi following reports of the 81-year-old's death in the Italian press.

Cosmo editor Helen Gurley Brown dies at 90

Helen Gurley Brown, the saucy Cosmopolitan editor who delivered thousands of sex tips to single women and more than a few curious men, died Monday. She was 90.

Joel Kinnaman new face of H&M

High street retailer H&M has chosen Swedish-American actor Joel Kinnaman as the face of its Fall 2012 ad campaign, directed by Jonas Akerlund.

Alexander McQueen unveils frenetic Fall 2012 fashion film

It appears that for Fall/Winter 2012 designers are attempting to outdo each other in the psychedelic stakes, with Alexander McQueen the latest label to unveil a trippy '80s inspired campaign video.

Olympics: Fashion wins few medals in London

Designer Giorgio Armani predicted that the London Olympics would be the most stylish ever, but fashion experts say there has been as much bad taste as elegance on display.

Fifth & Pacific: Kate Spade will buy Japan venture

Fifth & Pacific Cos. said Friday that its Kate Spade LLC brand is buying out the interest of its partner in a joint venture based in Japan.

Famed Bridal Designer Vera Wang Separates From Husband

Vera Wang, the fashion designer who has all but become the face of American weddings, is separating from her husband, Arthur Becker. “Vera Wang and Arthur Becker have mutually and amicably agreed to separate,” Wang’s publicist said in a statement to ABCNews.com. “They remain devoted parents...

Millionaire Fashion Designer Wants Your Funding

Crowdfunding can be a great way to get a charity or creative project off the ground if you're starved for cash. Now, apparently, more established business owners are turning to it too.

Fashion agenda: Britain Creates 2012, Lakmé Fashion Week

The Olympic Games aren't traditionally associated with fashion but visitors to London with an interest in style will be glad to hear about the ongoing Britain Creates 2012: Fashion & Art Collusion project in the UK capital. Meanwhile, fashion weeks in destinations ranging from Mumbai to Copenhagen are coming up.

Dolce&Gabbana summer fashion sings of Sicily

These are happy boys. Happy that it's summer. Happy to be Sicilian.

AP Photos: Mumbai's fashion week

India's cultural capital of Mumbai is in the thick of the fashion world with Lakme Fashion Week, wrapping up five days of runway presentations on Tuesday.

Fashion Designer Nicole Miller Wants to Talk to You on VYou

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Qatari royals buy Italian fashion icon Valentino

MILAN/LONDON (Reuters) - Italian fashion house Valentino has been snapped up by the Qatari royal family for 700 million euros ($857.5 million), the latest purchase of a top European luxury brand by an emerging market investor. The luxury label loved by Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and Audrey Hepburn said on Thursday that Mayhoola for Investments S.P.C, an investment vehicle backed by a leading Qatari, had bought it from UK-based private equity fund Permira and minority investors the Marzotto textile entrepreneurs. Valentino did not disclose financial details of the sale or name the investor. ...

London Fashion Week: Jonathan Saunders creates bespoke visuals

This year's BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund winner Jonathan Saunders has collaborated with London Fashion Week to create his own bespoke visuals to promote the event, marking the launch of a new annual designer team-up.

Beauty agenda: Lakmé Fashion Week, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Festival Sydney

Fashion weeks in destinations ranging from Mumbai to Sydney makes August an exciting month for beauty junkies, with special guests at Lakmé Fashion Week including beauty expert Kapil Bhalla -- who has worked with top celebrities such as Shilpa Shetty.

Czech supermodel Petra Nemcova named ambassador at large to promote Haiti in other nations

PORT-AU-PRINCE, Haiti - Supermodel Petra Nemcova has been named ambassador at large for Haiti because of the charity work she's done through her non-profit group the Happy Hearts Fund.

Ralph Lauren to buy back up to $500M in shares

Clothing and housewares maker Ralph Lauren Corp. said Thursday it will add $500 million in shares to its buyback program.

Ralph Lauren adding 500 jobs in High Point

Ralph Lauren Corp. will create 500 more jobs over the next five years and invest $97 million in High Point, N.C., where the company already has several operations.

Ralph Lauren Won't Make Olympic Mistake Again

After pressure came from as far up the ladder as Sen. Harry Reid and Rep. Nancy Pelosi, Ralph Lauren announced Friday evening the U.S. Olympic uniforms for the 2012 Winter games in Sochi, Russia will be made in the good ol' U.S. of A. 

Revealed: Ashley Greene for DKNY Jeans fall campaign

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Vogue breaks own record with 916-page September issue

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Video: Behind the scenes with Lady Gaga and US Vogue

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Yves Saint Laurent rebranding unveiled online

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Ralph Lauren Organizes Facebook Send-Off for Olympic Athletes

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Jean Paul Gaultier

There's little doubt that posterity will recognize Jean Paul Gaultier as one of the all-time greats, but it will also have to recognize the profligacy of his genius, the carelessness with mere bagatelles like timekeeping (the 90-minute wait today bordered on those interminable delays that were a signature of the house 20 years ago), the way the extravagantly throwaway has always shared catwalk space with fiercely disciplined, beautifully crafted clothes. Haute couture has indulged both those impulses to an extreme for the designer, so the pendulum swing of consensus on his couture is unsurprisingly determined by which impulse dominates. Today, mercifully, it was discipline and craft.


That's probably what happens when you have a presiding spirit as wayward as Pete Doherty, the voice on the soundtrack, the star of Sylvie Verheyde's adaptation of nineteenth century poet Alfred de Musset's Confession of a Child of the Century, which was the spark of the collection. Once you'd ascertained (thank you, Wiki!) that de Musset's grand amour was the novelist George Sand, who scandalized mid-nineteenth century Paris by wearing men's clothes and smoking in public, Gaultier's collection slotted with the greatest of ease into his series of salutes to everything that has ever made Paris so justifiably full of itself. Erin O'Connor opened the show as Sand, in top hat, tailcoat, and gentleman's fob. She was followed by a set of Gaultier's peerless meditations on Le Smoking, including a silhouette that quoted Dior's Bar silhouette. It was never a secret that Gaultier would have been a logical candidate for the top job at Dior when Galliano got the gig. This season, when Dior is once again the big story with the Simons ascendancy, there was a certain poignancy in such reminders of that long-ago dream.


But Gaultier went on to prove how he owns his decadent, romantic, polymorphous fashion sensibility. Sand's tailcoat came back time and again, in crocodile, in camel, in the "male couture" that Gaultier inserted with a wincing lack of subtlety, and in the bridal finale, where the tails were splayed across a white skirt in front while the lapels were extended into swan's wings in back. The designer also paraded silken kimono-styled eveningwear that conveyed the fin de siècle feel of outfits named after characters from Proust, Huysmans, and Wilde. The colors—absinthe, coral, gold, papal purple—were the colors of opium dreams. Gaultier amplified the Beaux Arts mood by including a couple of articulated automatons. They could have been the robot from Metropolis. Or maybe they were sisters of the Georges Méliès creation that featured in Martin Scorsese's Hugo. Better that way—Gaultier's collections are always a love song to Paris.
—Tim Blanks

Armani Privé

Giorgio Armani's morning-to-midnight scenario gave him the perfect excuse to offer his clients an entire wardrobe in the most traditional sense of haute couture. If that didn't make for his most drama-laden show, that's scarcely the point when you are as absorbed by the exigencies of daily dressing as Mr. Armani is.


Nor was the kind of woman who would arise to don the pale blues and lilacs paired with black velvet pants that were part of the matinal Armani offering really the point. His point was this: easy jackets with a broad, slightly peaked shoulder, trousers with a generous volume, flat shoes. And Armani has made this point so convincingly throughout his career that its reiteration here could be called icing on a billion-dollar cake.


There were dresses, the best being a pair of lean cocktail numbers in lavender and mauve organza. Armani's tendency to pair models on the catwalk, coupled with the subtly exaggerated makeup, gave these looks a slightly android Blade Runner appeal that underscored the futurism that infuses Armani's work. So did his headgear. The little black berets by Philip Treacy and the beaded veils created a through line of uniformity.


Armani said it was mystery he was after with those veils, and to his credit, when Aymeline Valade eased down the catwalk in folds of midnight organza, her shoulders veiled in tulle, her features subtly concealed, it was mystery he got.
—Tim Blanks

Bouchra Jarrar

Bouchra Jarrar has been showing at Couture for six seasons and has yet to put a single beaded ball gown on her runway. Rigor is her stock in trade, and there was more of that at her Musée Bourdelle show today. She opened with tailoring. It's as precise as ever—she cuts a mean pair of trousers. But notice the ruffle at the hem of the first look's ivory vest. That small detail told the whole story of the collection, which was notable for its new sense of femininity.



"Everything has a waist," she said backstage. "It's very constructed, but A-line and flared." A year ago, her jackets were boxy and her frocks were almost egg-shaped. Here, belts played a starring role, whether cinching dresses made from shirting stripe fabric or buckled over the black, peplumed bustier that topped a pair of gabardine pants.



Women have fallen for Jarrar because she's given them something new to wear for work. This season, seduction is the order of the day. A silk gown in a lily print turned to reveal a plunging draped back. Another long dress was made from shifting layers of georgette and crepe de chine in black and a green she aptly called "very profond"; the effect was captivating. And, yes, she even did a beaded gown, or at least it was partly beaded on its bodice. Lovely all around.
—Nicole Phelps

Valentino

Look at Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli, so ascetic and spare with their dark clothes and modest demeanor, and you can only wonder at the intensity of the clothes they create. So, obviously, did the scribe who penned their show notes, as lost in the search for words to define the collection as everyone else was after the fact. That's because Chiuri and Piccioli are like the solitary writer who spins a magic kingdom out of his imagination. "Regal beauty," Piccioli said by way of explanation. "Sensual but severe." And if that had a Game of Thrones tang, well, that fitted with a Couture collection that felt like a world we were allowed to enter without fully understanding what it was we were seeing.


The mood board in their studio was dense with nineteenth century altered states: the symbolists, the decadents, a romantic spirit that combined ecstatic release and exhausted lassitude. Valentino is a house that traditionally reads red, but Chiuri and Piccioli dialed down to blue, introspection and reflection versus the extrovert essence of house habit. It made for a quietly spectacular opening in crepes, chiffons, and cashmeres with a lush sobriety. That same idea of modest luxury carried over into a full-length lace and chiffon floral dress, and a coat that was encrusted with cashmere appliqués of flowers and leaves in a pattern that was inspired by William Morris' Tree of Life. It was so ludicrously vivid that you could imagine the old boy himself would have felt one step closer to God when he looked at it.


If there have been times in Chiuri and Piccioli's tenure at Valentino when they seemed a little stultified by respectful politeness, today felt like a once-and-for-all cutting loose. The way they introduced brocade, for instance, an oldish idea, but here zapped with yellow. Then there was the blue, of course, antithesis of all the house traditionally holds dear, even if the red did reinsert itself toward the end of the show (which only created a pleasurable tension for Spring). One of the most memorable outfits from this Couture moment in Paris will surely be the evening dress in navy plissé with the black shadow falling diagonally across it. Stark lushness—why does that notion sound so right with Couture in such transition?
—Tim Blanks

Mugler

Since Nicola Formichetti and Sébastien Peigné took over at Mugler last year, their runway shows have been strictly high-concept. Emphasizing the sales-floor viability of their aesthetic hasn't been the priority. So it was interesting to encounter the pair in a showroom setting, pointing out the similarities and differences between the editorial pieces "for magazines" and their commercial equivalents.


Resort is their most relatable work so far. Inspired, they said, by Asia, flags, the Olympics, and the work of New York illustrator Mel Odom, with whom they collaborated on a kissing print, they focused much of their attention on tailoring. High-waisted, full-leg trousers will find buyers, as will little leather Perfecto jackets and boxy, man-size T-shirts. The "runway" versions of the color-blocked flag tees were printed many times over for a rubbery sheen that shows up in the lookbook pics. The "real world" styles were printed less often, which not only lowers the price but makes them softer. Not the kind of details that will earn them Facebook "likes," but vital nonetheless. Something else important to the brand and the bottom line: Formichetti and Peigné will be launching Mugler's handbag range at the show in September.
—Nicole Phelps

Osman

Rigor is essential to a designer. But an excess of discipline—like any other kind of too-muchness—can be the undoing of a collection. When Osman Yousefzada launched his line four years ago, his clothes were rigorous almost to the point of sterility. He obviously had a way with cut and a strong and refined sense of color, but his sculptural aesthetic was rather monastic, a tone hard to square with the warm, curious young man responsible for it. Now, with the debut of his first Resort collection, he finally seems to be having fun.



The playful feeling here was due to two positive developments: First, Yousefzada has loosened up his shapes, and second, he's accommodated himself to the idea of decoration. The looser mood could be summed up in a simple, slit-up-to-there black gown with painterly flowers embroidered on the bodice. The piece breathed. Elsewhere, the designer applied the same embroidery to more typically structured looks, such as squared-off strapless dresses, but the cuts were softened by their sexiness. Likewise, the repeated use of an open shoulder, in A-line dresses and peplum tops, modernized pieces that would have otherwise come off atavistically prim. There was still a vintage-y mien—Yousefzada's pastel jacquard tank and brocade cigarette pant wouldn't have looked out of place on Jackie Kennedy—but overall, the collection was sprightly and up-to-date.
—Maya Singer

Peter Som

Like other designers this season, Peter Som has been struck by wanderlust. He hasn't gotten further away than Fire Island himself lately, but pointing to the pictures of camels, Moorish doors, and Moroccan tiles on his Resort mood board, he described the look of his new collection as "nomad chic, with a Talitha Getty sort of feeling." Well, he who seeks shall find: After a Fall show that found him cozying up to a crisp, referential minimalism, his latest offering signaled something of a return to form, emphasizing the charming prints and colorful tweeds that have become, over a decade in the business, house signatures.



Those mood board photos of wall tiles inspired a striking mosaic vine print that appeared on everything from a matching pantsuit to a maxi dress; damask wallpaper, meanwhile, was the starting point for the blue and white cotton burnout he used for a long-sleeved dress. Som let the fabrics do the talking. If it backfired on him in the case of a tweed jacket and torn paper-print blouse worn with pink paillette pajama pants (those materials were practically shouting over each other to be heard), it worked well in the case of a simple T-shirt gown cut from aqua Chantilly lace. Talitha would've appreciated its zip-up-and-go efficiency.
—Nicole Phelps

Camilla and Marc

Did Marie Antoinette play sports? It strains the imagination a little, but it's not entirely impossible to picture her pitching up in the backyard of the Petit Trianon for a nice game of croquet. Maybe even a set or two of badminton, before retiring to her rooms in Versailles to have her wig clamped back on as she nibbles on macarons and dreams of Count Fersen. Anyway, this train of thought comes courtesy of the latest Camilla and Marc collection, which takes its inspiration from the interiors of Versailles. Siblings Camilla Freeman-Topper and Marc Freeman have put a jaunty spin on the baroque, turning out abbreviated cocktail dresses trussed with ruffles; sharp, shoulder-baring peplum tops and cropped trousers in reflective pink or a magnified jewel print; and striped knit and tailored dresses in colors of buttercream frosting. The strongest pieces here, unusually for the brand, were the most casual—the short, squared-off silk dresses with a high neck and fluttering sleeve were particularly good, as were the waterfall tank tops featuring a contrasting band of color on the hem. It's also worth calling out the Camilla and Marc denim: This season, the jeans were high-waisted, perfectly cut skinnies executed in a handful of pastels, and they looked like a cult phenom waiting to happen. Or to put it another way, the jeans seemed like exactly the thing a modern-day Marie Antoinette would don for a game of petanque, before shimmying off to meet her lover.
—Maya Singer

Milly

Michelle Smith is rounding out a long Resort season with a new lineup for Milly inspired by the irresistibly catchy seventies tune "Funky Nassau." With its polka-dot PVC trenchcoats, neon bungee cord belts, and graphic prints, her collection had an upbeat vibe similar to the song. And stylish moms will be happy to know their girls can dress just like them in scaled-down, coordinating pieces from the Milly Minis line (Smith's daughter Sophia was happy to skip summer camp for a day and model for the lookbook). Tailored shorts suits and corseted shifts for daytime came in a "wood grain pattern that I wanted to be a non-pattern," explained the designer. Another highlight was the slouchy, marled sweater paired with a ruffled geometric miniskirt, which struck a nice balance between free and easy funk and fashion.
—Brittany Adams

Revillon

Designing his first Resort collection for Revillon, the Parisian furrier founded in 1723, newly installed creative director Andrew Heather faced a challenge: how to make fur relevant for a warmer season. He answered it by using fox and goat as an accent on lace. And not just any lace, but a lace he designed to resemble a civet's spots and stripes and also needle-punched with mohair, then cut into a black cocktail dress, worn with a long matching scarf tossed over the shoulders, as well as a peony pink T-shirt, skirt, and belted jacket. Another good idea: a mink redingote sheared so thin it could pass for silk velvet. Heather's is a discreet kind of luxury.


He's also got a practical streak, despite years spent in the couture atelier at Givenchy, and he exercised it today with a trench made from kangaroo leather, which he chose for its papery touch and its light weight.
—Nicole Phelps

Chanel

Maybe it's because he speaks so fast that there always seems to be a slight undertow of scorn in Karl Lagerfeld's aperçus. "In fashion, the future is six months," he practically spat after Chanel's Couture show today. That could be why he took New Vintage as his theme. "Vintage is depressing," Lagerfeld clarified. "But 'new vintage' is something to come. It's preparation for something that could last."


The show was staged in the Grand Palais, as has become custom, but this time Lagerfeld used the Salon d'Honneur, a space that had been closed off for 70 years. The walls were painted, the ceiling and door surrounds customized to an interior design concept that Coco Chanel used in her original salon de couture. But here it was refreshed. "A renovation of the existing spirit for our time," Lagerfeld said.


Renovation wasn't, however, the thrust of the actual collection. It was far less jeune fille than it's been of late. When Jamie Bochert and Stella Tennant stepped out on the catwalk, they looked like substantial women of character. Their clothes had a 1940's line—broad shoulders, swingy coat, cape backs—in a color palette of black, gray, silver, and dusty pink that spoke of film noir interiors. Their hair also had a forties flavor, with a Rosie the Riveter snood. In other words, there was nothing new about this particular vintage. But it worked, in a gutsy, grown-up way. Lagerfeld's portrait of Chanel adorned the invitation and, in keeping with that nod to heritage, the spine of the collection was suits. Except that the classic tweed was actually embroidery on tulle. Thousands of hours of handwork. Couture in excelsis.


Lagerfeld paired the suits with sparkling hose and wove silver through his "tweeds." There was gilding galore. "These clothes are for a world of privileged people," he said, with a hint of resignation (surely not scorn). And it was a wide world of clothes on display: an ethereal gilet spun from what looked like thistledown followed hard and less than coherently on the heels of a tracksuit in dégradé sequins. But that wayward abundance has always been the rule with Lagerfeld's Chanel. And who knows how that tracksuit will look on the block at Sotheby's in 50 years?
—Tim Blanks

Collette Dinnigan

As a brand becomes more established, recurring stylistic elements come to be known as "house codes." That Collette Dinnigan has several easily identifiable touches—lace that flutters over shoulders and neckline-to-hemline sparkle both come to mind—speaks to a level of consistency that she's more or less maintained over 20 years.



Her 2013 pre-collection follows the classic Resort ethos—clothes for beach getaways—without abandoning her red carpet-lite niche. Dresses in geranium, sky blue, and crisp green French lace skimmed the body without clinging. A short-sleeved dress in mesh and lace was an LBD with staying power. Dinnigan placed equal weight on three-dimensional fabrics (featuring raffia flowers, beads, and paillettes) as on two breezy but busy prints.



If some pieces (the daisy embroidery, the coral capped-sleeve ruffle dress) prompted a déjà-vu reaction—as in, doesn't that look like [insert high-end label here] from Spring 2012?—it simply confirms that this designer can turn runway drama into first-date fashion. Her collection will make it to poolsides and movie premieres; eyelet blouses and jersey dresses looked travel-friendly, while the bejeweled gowns are party photo bait. These are lifestyle codes that Dinnigan understands well.
—Alex Veblen

Cacharel

Vintage tennis outfits from the thirties and forties inspired Cacharel's new Resort collection. Styled with crisp white sneaks and a ringlet-curl pixie cut, lookbook model Maja Salamon channeled racket stars from the era like Pauline Betz Addie in cotton shorts sets and collared pointelle knit dresses (the Wimbledonlike green turf on which she was standing helped achieve the desired effect). For their first few seasons as creative directors, Ling Liu and Dawei Sun resisted the French house's signature Liberty florals, opting to show more graphic patterns instead. This time around, the design duo put their own spin on the signature prints, mixing in crystallized butterflies with the standard blossoms. The result was particularly fresh worn head to toe on a fitted tank with matching wide-legged trousers. Other noteworthy moments included a tie-back turquoise top paired with a "wavelength"-motif silk maxi skirt and an on-trend, away-from-the body geometric jacquard coat.
—Brittany Adams

Elie Tahari

Our review will be posted shortly. See the complete collection by clicking the image at left.

Givenchy

Riccardo Tisci brought together dueling impulses in his Fall Couture collection: On the one hand, he returned to the simple lines of the sixties, when Hubert de Givenchy was at the center of the Paris scene. On the other, he riffed on the look of gypsies, specifically the gypsies you encounter in present-day southern Italy, where he's from. The haute and the street—it's the kind of mix this designer loves.


After seven years at the house, the Tisci codes are instantly recognizable, and copied nearly as quickly. Beaded fringes will be multiplying at the fast-fashion brands as quickly as machines can string them. Here at the mother ship, of course, the beads were painstakingly strung by hand, red and black ones in a pattern that together created a mosaic design to match the embroidery on the top of a floor-length cape. It was the collection's pièce de résistance, and under it, the model wore a jumpsuit made from jersey on top and beaded velvet on bottom, complete with attached open-toe, kitten-heel booties.


Beyond It factor, which he has in spades, technique is the thing at Tisci's Givenchy. The black nappa fringe on a dress boasting intricate leather embroidery extended all the way to the ground, and a halter-neck gown came with a built-in cape that was obsessively embroidered with sequins not on its outside but on its inside.


You felt like Tisci was fighting his own impulses with a pair of nude-colored dresses that featured sheared mink bodices and narrow, unadorned wool and cashmere skirts. And yet that was intriguing, too. It's more than likely that his signatures—a lavishly beaded and fringed cardigan that shaded from cappuccino at the neckline to deep espresso at its hem, for instance—will be the collection's hot tickets. But those restrained column gowns pointed in a new direction, one that's worth exploring further.
—Nicole Phelps

Balmain

Olivier Rousteing has developed a bit of an America fixation. A year ago, at a presentation of his first collection for Balmain, he was talking about Las Vegas. When he was working on this Resort lineup, a trip to Miami made a big impression. You saw it not only in its South Beach colors (yellow, peach, and mint) and oversize Don Johnson proportions, but also in its Latin influences. "I'm mixed race, too," he said, "so it was beautiful to see the connection between Cuba and the U.S. there."


"Fun, happiness, and hope" were the endearingly earnest Rousteing's talking points for Resort, and we'd say he nailed all three, without killing off the sexy edge that defined the Balmainia moment under his predecessor, Christophe Decarnin.


The key silhouette here was an elongated blazer that buttoned well south of the navel and fell to about the hips, worn with loose, pleated, and cuffed trousers. There was no such oversizing with the dresses, though, which remained as mini as mini gets. Rousteing is really getting behind a silhouette with a folded-over skirt construction that creates a flaring volume at the sides of the thighs. He also gets this season's prize for novelty for a dress made from basket-weave raffia.
—Nicole Phelps

Ralph Lauren

You may never walk a mile in Ralph Lauren's shoes. You may have to walk a mile to Ralph Lauren's shoes. A fashion spectator, invited into Lauren's sweeping Madison Avenue showrooms, has a long journey ahead of him. The trip through the worlds of Purple Label, Black Label, Polo, and RLX—plus the Jeans iterations of at least a few of the preceding lines—seems to encompass at least one city block. Bring your hiking boots. Or borrow a pair of those on display.



First, Purple Label, the toniest jewel in the RL crown—the chairman of its board, if you will. The highest rollers won't be disappointed by the three-piece tailoring and tailcoated evening options, though they may be surprised to find them newly snug, thanks to a slimmed silhouette. The sportswear offerings have been much expanded, from floral pants to hazard orange, bonded slickers, for the CEO who peacocks when he's off the clock. Or perhaps just in acknowledgment of the fact that today's CEO isn't necessarily hoary. This is the age of the Instagram millionaire.



At Black Label, the story is brown. It's the label's new neutral, and it looks great against the country club pastels like lilac and sea foam that are RL standards. The Black Label denim gets in on the story, too, in weather-beaten sand tones.



Polo is more relaxed, the college boy of the bunch, with natural shoulders and softer materials to match. The RL team has begun to mix it in with the technical-sport RLX collection, a move that's brought a bit of freshness to both. The vibe is Outdoorsman in the Off Hours—which translates pretty directly to Men's Fashion Editor in the On Hours. Leave on those hiking boots, in other words, but put on your blazer, too.
—Matthew Schneier

Christian Dior

Fashion had seen nothing like it for years. Outside in the street, there
was hysteria. Inside, the industry's great and good—Alaïa, Elbaz,
Jacobs, Theyskens, Tisci, Van Assche, Versace, von Furstenberg—gathered
to see Raf Simons debut his first haute couture collection for Christian Dior. That it would be a success seemed a given, what with the evolving
polish and confidence of Simons' "couture trilogy" for his previous
employer, Jil Sander. That it would be such a triumph was a thrill. The avant-garde outsider from Antwerp insinuated himself into the hallowed history of haute couture with a tour de force
that had both emotional and intellectual
resonance. As the man himself said, "A shift is happening."



About that outsider thing: It's a position that has always loaned a
crystal clarity to Simons' vision and has helped him to the purest
interpretations of his inspirations. Here, he used that unusually
heightened sense of focus to reflect on Christian Dior as architect, a
notion that dovetailed neatly with his own obsession with construction.
The first look—a tuxedo whose jacket was shaped after Dior's iconic Bar
jacket, one of the most distinctive silhouettes in fashion—established
an innate compatibility that reached across a half-century.



Simons has been engaged with this world for a while. Dior was obviously
the guiding spirit of his fascination with midcentury couture (see the Q&A here) during his
last seasons with Sander. But he approached an actual couture collection
with an appropriate balance of reverence and iconoclasm. One key
silhouette could best be defined as a full-skirted classic ball gown
truncated at the peplum (a quote from a 1952 collection, according to the
run of show), its skirt replaced by black silk cigarette pants. The
formal past, the streamlined future, meeting in the middle. It was the same with
the traditional Bucol silks woven to represent a painting, drips and all,
by Sterling Ruby, one of the contemporary art world's hottest properties
(and a Simons favorite). Past and future met again in an evening
ensemble that matched the athletic ease of a citron silk knit to the grandeur of
a floor-sweeping silk skirt. And the veils that Stephen Jones contributed
to the finale may have been from Paris in the 1930's, but there is
timeless allure in that look.



Simons returned to the flared hip of the Bar with a deep-pocketed coat-dress in red cashmere as well as a strapless dress in the same
heartbreaking shade of pink that launched his last Sander show. That was
the kind of subtle personal flourish that married his own story to
Dior's
history. It also underlined how much of an asset Simons will be not just
to Dior but to couture itself. He can't help himself; he will bring a
heart-on-his-sleeve human dimension to this remote and rarefied world.



But as he proved today, he certainly won't be doing it in a low-key way.
Christian Dior's own obsession—flowers—was translated into salons
lined ceiling to floor with panels of blooms: delphiniums in the blue
room, orchids in the white room, mimosa in the yellow room, and so on.
More than a million all told, making a gorgeous architectural abstraction
of nature. There's some kind of metaphor about creative processes in
there somewhere, but it's simpler to leave things with Simons' own definition
of the day: "a blueprint."
—Tim Blanks

MP Massimo Piombo

Italian flair, French sophistication, a touch of debonair British elegance: These were the ingredients of designer Massimo Piombo's Spring collection, and they made for an exquisite cocktail, shaken and stirred to perfection and best enjoyed, you imagine, on a terrace of the Hotel Splendido in Portofino. A growing partnership with the Neapolitan brand Kiton has brought impeccable in-house tailoring execution and a sartorial spirit, mixed with the refined restraint that is typical of Piombo's native Genoa. "Italians understand beauty as nobody else does, brought up as we are with a natural feel for quality," he claims. "Luxury for us rhymes with style and not with money and has more to do with memory, romance, charm, and wit."



The Genoese have been known for centuries as kings of the sea, secretive and powerful merchants who crisscrossed the world bringing back exotic wonders from remote lands.
Piombo has the same soul-searching malaise of a true eccentric traveler. You can see that in his treasure trove of lovingly researched fabrics: rare French silks from the hidden archives of old Lyon factories; Irish or Belgian linens of the softest texture, spun after the yarn has been put to leaven as if it were dough in dark, damp caves; Massaua cotton from Ethiopia, a modest, inconspicuous fabric light as a whisper but of such quality as to be chosen by local noblemen for their Savile Row suits; cashmeres and cottons dyed and printed in India with old hand looms, perfect and unique in their touching imperfection. This is the wardrobe of a well-read, worldly pirate—dapper in a dark blue hand-printed silk tuxedo, off for an old-style grande soirée in Antibes, chez Hotel du Cap.



Elegance with a well-born ease, a nonchalant attitude, an educated mind: Massimo Piombo is ready for his close-up, the brand very much a doppelgänger of himself. And what else if not blue would be the color of choice for the collection? Make that more than 50 shades of true blues reminiscent of the enchanting Portofino bay, where you can picture him carefree and chic as hell, strolling about the Piazzetta, eyes grinning with a mischievous sparkle, charming everyone.
—Tiziana Cardini

Damir Doma

Damir Doma opened up shop on Rue Faubourg Saint-Honoré on Sunday. A store to call his own (and after only five years in the business) is reason enough to deliver a sharp, sellable Resort collection, but the designer said he had another good excuse, too. "When I went back to look at Fall, I think I went too costumey," he said of his most recent show. "I decided to take out the strong bits and do them in a more cool and effortless way." Step one was to introduce denim to the lineup. His jeans came in a blue so faded they were nearly white and with a crossover waistband. Paired with a lapel-less linen blazer in the same almost-blue shade and cinched with a black leather belt, they met both his criteria for success. Same goes for a tank dress made from texturized black silk. Fitted through the torso, it fell loosely from the waist to below the knees with the kind of everyday ease that will make girls reach for it again and again.
—Nicole Phelps

Ulyana Sergeenko

Ulyana Sergeenko, the Russian couture collector and street-style star turned designer, put on a runway show smack dab in the middle of Chanel and Armani Privé today, and had the kind of front row that other up-and-coming designers dream about: Carine Roitfeld, Grace Coddington, and a coterie of her own high-spending countrywomen, who gave Sergeenko a standing ovation when she came out for her bow. Her pal Elena Perminova was actually wearing a variation on one of the looks on the catwalk. Not a bad business plan—the Russian crowd is obsessively photographed on the streets outside the shows. Inside the Théâtre Marigny, there was more than a handful of young women wearing what has become Sergeenko's signature look: clingy sweater tucked into a fifties-style full skirt, some extending all the way to the ground.


And there was more of that on the runway, as well as Russianisms like military great coats lined in fur and chintz apron dresses, plus street-style bait like a puff-sleeve turtleneck top and matching bloomers. The accessories—babushkas, hand-carved wooden heels, big fur hats and gloves—put the accent on the designer's heritage. Natalia Vodianova, the Russian supermodel, closed the show in a floor-sweeping black coat and flower-embroidered tulle veil. "Bellissima," Anna Dello Russo crowed backstage afterward. Sergeenko is a storyteller, but if she wants to break through to a wider audience, she'll eventually need to curb the fairy tale.
—Nicole Phelps

Anne Valérie Hash

Soft tailoring is Anne Valérie Hash's main gig. Comfy isn't a word that gets used much in fashion, but maybe it should. It's the reason why shoppers respond to her jackets that slouch on like a sweater and crossover waistline pants. Practicality isn't a quality that gets cheered much, either, but Hash embraces it, whipping up blazers in a Japanese technical cotton that are completely reversible. She's even got a "dress in a bag" in her new pre-collection. Take it off and you can stuff the whole thing into one of its gathered sleeves. If that cobalt jersey number was more marketing gimmick than anything else, it showcased Hash's gorgeous color sense. The same shade of blue was used as a waistline accent on a great-looking terra-cotta all-in-one. Jumpsuits are doing well for the designer in stores, so she added several new styles to the lineup. There's no reason to think they won't perform just as well.
—Nicole Phelps

Maison Martin Margiela

Raf Simons' presence in the front row at Maison Martin Margiela's first couture week runway show caused a stir. One editor wondered aloud if it meant that the mystery man himself, a friend of Simons', had returned to the label that bears his name. That's not likely, but this 15-look "Artisanal" collection, as the house calls it, was founded on one of Margiela's signature fixations: reclaiming vintage clothes, accessories, and other objects (remember his household furniture show from Fall 2006?) and reworking them by hand into new pieces.


The raw cotton sleeveless jacket that opened the show was modeled after a 1905 tailcoat, its closure a crystal doorknob found in New York City. An antique silk gown beaded in an Art Nouveau motif was transformed into a long, quilted bomber jacket. And a bolero and vest constructed from vintage baseball gloves and a coat made from a windsurfing sail added a surreal touch.


The focus was on the upper half of the body. For the lower half, the design team sourced lace from all over France to make simple straight-leg trousers that acted as a canvas for the action above. The models went incognito behind masks (another old Margiela trope) embroidered with hundreds of crystals. There was no shortage of beads or lace either, but nonetheless the presentation acted as an avant-garde (and eco-friendlier) antidote to the shows that preceded it this week. A welcome addition to the couture schedule.
—Nicole Phelps

Alexis Mabille

Pity the designer who had to follow Raf Simons' blockbuster debut at Dior. Today, that task fell to Alexis Mabille, and the Frenchman suffered by the comparison. A beauty look that had his models sporting crescent moon hairdos with diamanté brooches suspended from their tips did him no favors, but the collection's more fatal flaw was its lack of focus.



Backstage, Mabille said he was "imagining women as jewels." That gave him his far-ranging color palette—malachite to opal to topaz to platinum—and an excuse to lay the sequins on thick. Beyond that, it was hard to connect the dots between the show-opening clingy black jersey dress trimmed in 600 buttons and the finale look in nude crepe veiled in a silvery organza. Still, there were a few winners in the mix. The long-sleeved velvet number with slits on the front and back of the bodice and batwing sleeves stood out for its simplicity. There's beauty in diversity, sure, but a strong point of view is everything in fashion, as Simons made so clear at Dior. Mabille's collection didn't have enough of that.
—Nicole Phelps

Giambattista Valli

Giambattista Valli spun a bucolic backstory for his Couture collection: nymphs, fairies, silvery reflections in woodland ponds. And the Master's Margarita, witchy and wanton in her dealings with the devil. Ain't couture grand! Remarkably, these pagan sentiments almost managed to infiltrate the clothes. They certainly shaped the prints.


Valli was thinking that the couture dream is so far away from what constitutes "fashion" in most people's minds that he could follow his fantasy into some timeless realm, a place where the transience of beauty was arrested, kind of like the dreamy fairyland in Ridley Scott's Legend. It was a lovely idea, embodied by models whose veiled heads were studded with butterflies. But the clothes didn't match the concept.


That was partly a function of Valli's solid grounding in Roman alta moda. If the prints brought the moda, the silhouettes looked merely alta, ruffled to discomfort, extended into traditional volumes that looked… er… stuffy.


There were moments when the concept crossed over into glamorous conviction. A coat designed to look like the grass of a woodland glade had a shaggy splendor. A sequin underskirt shimmered like sunlight on water. The final outfit, an orgy of ruffles, had a tenebrous sensuality. Otherwise, Valli's party-girl froth went off the fizz with this collection.
—Tim Blanks