Mugler

Since Nicola Formichetti and Sébastien Peigné took over at Mugler last year, their runway shows have been strictly high-concept. Emphasizing the sales-floor viability of their aesthetic hasn't been the priority. So it was interesting to encounter the pair in a showroom setting, pointing out the similarities and differences between the editorial pieces "for magazines" and their commercial equivalents.


Resort is their most relatable work so far. Inspired, they said, by Asia, flags, the Olympics, and the work of New York illustrator Mel Odom, with whom they collaborated on a kissing print, they focused much of their attention on tailoring. High-waisted, full-leg trousers will find buyers, as will little leather Perfecto jackets and boxy, man-size T-shirts. The "runway" versions of the color-blocked flag tees were printed many times over for a rubbery sheen that shows up in the lookbook pics. The "real world" styles were printed less often, which not only lowers the price but makes them softer. Not the kind of details that will earn them Facebook "likes," but vital nonetheless. Something else important to the brand and the bottom line: Formichetti and Peigné will be launching Mugler's handbag range at the show in September.
—Nicole Phelps